Latvijas Finieris, the Latvian State Institute of Wood Chemistry, and Cosmetics Manufacturer Labrains Explore Oleogel 

From Latvia’s forests to beauty care laboratories – this is the journey undertaken by Latvijas Finieris in collaboration with the Latvian State Institute of Wood Chemistry (LSIWC) and the cosmetics brand Labrains, as they launch a joint research project exploring the use of birch bark extracts in a novel and innovative form: oleogel.  This collaboration marks an important step in advancing science, industry and cosmetics in Latvia, harnessing local forest resources to create high value-added products of natural origin.

For more than a decade, Latvijas Finieris has been researching and developing the potential of birch bark, with a particular focus on its biologically active substances – triterpenes, including betulin, betulinic acid and lupeol.  Until now, these substances have been obtained in powder form. Recent research, however, has paved the way for the development of an entirely new substance – oleogel, in which the active ingredients are stably embedded within a gel-like structure.  This form offers a wide range of possibilities in both medical and cosmetic applications, as the gel provides more even absorption and greater product stability.

“This marks an important step in our research and innovation journey, moving from powder to a unique gel solution that creates high added value from birch sapwood – previously used in industry solely for energy production,”

says Māris Būmanis, Member of the Executive Board of Latvijas Finieris.

To develop the potential of this material, Latvijas Finieris is developing a joint project with LSIWC and cosmetics manufacturer Labrains.  Within the project, scientists at LSIWC are conducting technological studies and analysing the composition of oleogel, assessing its stability, physicochemical properties, and the persistence of active substances. Labrains will translate these results into tangible outcomes – innovative skincare products.

The project is currently carrying out stability and formulation tests to evaluate the suitability of birch bark oleogel for a range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions and emulsions. In the coming months, the project will continue laboratory research, scale up the oleogel production technology to a 50-litre reactor, and advance research towards the development of a prototype cosmetic product.

“This collaboration is an excellent example of how expertise in diverse fields – forestry, chemistry and cosmetology – can generate new opportunities, both for scientific advancement, as well as for the development of export-ready products,”

added M. Būmanis.

Project title: “Development of Innovative Body Care Products Stabilised with Multifunctional Birch Bark Extract Particles and a Unique Cosmetic Raw Material.” 
(1.1.1.3/1./24/A/094)

Finansē Eiropas Savienība un Nacionālais attīstības plāns 2027